Composting

Composting is where the organic gardening thing comes full circle. It is an integral part of organic gardening.

It is the closed loop of nature... brilliant!

This is so simple and so obvious a thing to do, I'm still staggered that people bundle their kitchen and garden plant refuse into plastic bags and send it off to the tip. Recycle it into something useful.

No room for a compost heap? Consider a worm farm for recycling scraps.

Composting is like chemistry or cooking... if you add X to Y under Z conditions, this MUST happen. I think this applies big time to a successful compost heap.

So what does your compost need to work?

• It needs moisture (but not too much)
• It needs heat (and will generate a good deal on its own)
• It needs air
• It needs bugs, bacteria, fungi and other micro-organisms (pretty much 'build it and they will come' principle)

How do I start composting?

If you have a bit of room, build a couple of 3-sided enclosures, about 1m square (3sq ft) out of wood, wire, tin or whatever is laying about the place.

If you're in a place that gets a lot of rain, think about keeping a tarp handy so the compost heap doesn't get too soggy. It should be in a shady corner of your garden.

Composting doesn't work if you continually feed just one pile. The material being broken down is never finished in those circumstances.

So start with one pile by adding waste plant and kitchen refuse. This can include grass clippings, spent plants, fruit peelings, egg shells and non fatty kitchen scraps.

NEVER use fat, oil or meat in your compost. It will attract vermin.

Other things that will slow down decomposition include paper, rice, nut or seed hulls, wood shavings, woody cuttings and tough or oily leaves (like those from evergreens). If you are happy to let your compost cook for months rather than weeks, then these things can be considered. Diseased plants and weeds should also be kept out.

Fill the compost enclosure to 15-20cm (6-8 inches) with your refuse. Then spread a couple of scoops of agricultural lime and a handful of organic fertilizer or even a small layer of organic soil. Continue layering to a height of about 3 feet over time. If possible, every few weeks, turn the compost to encourage decomposition. If the compost material is dry, give it a light watering after turning.

Start your second pile while this one is 'cooking'.

Your compost should be ready for the garden in 6-8 weeks. By continuing to alternate between the two piles, you will have a continuous supply of fresh garden compost for your no dig garden beds while recycling your kitchen refuse.

If you are not inclined to build your own small enclosures, special bins can be purchased to create a very neat and clean composting area in your garden. This is also a good solution if garden pests are a problem. There are lots of composting solutions available on the market if this is an option you're interested in.

The myth of smells with compost

Composting stinks right? Wrong! If your compost is giving off an offensive smell, it's out of balance. Here are a few suggestions to fix it up:

1) Make sure that the chunks of material you're composting are no bigger than about a handful in size. If they are, use your spade to break them down a bit.

2) Make sure it's not too wet. If it is, mix in some drier material, like leaves to absorb the damp and alter the balance

3) Turn the pile. If there isn't enough air circulating in the pile, the microbes will die and the heat will go out of your compost. That will stop the breakdown of materials

4) Always put a layer of leaves or similar on the top layer of your compost. It will absorb odors and discourage flies.

For more information on getting the balance right in your compost heap, see No Dig Materials

How to tell when compost is ready

You will know when your compost is ready when the pile of composting material has shrunk to between 1/3 and 1/2 of its original size.

Your compost soil is ready to use on the garden when it has a dark, crumbly look and an earthy smell. You should no longer be able to recognise the things that went into the compost to make the new material.

If this isn't the case with your material, it is not yet 'cured.'

Check the moisture content. If it's too dry, turn, add some lime and perhaps a layer of dirt. Water it lightly and leave it alone. Do not continue to add new material.

If it is too wet, add some dry material, like leaves, turn, add some lime and perhaps a layer of dirt. Do not continue to add new material.

If the moisture content seems okay, just leave it alone for a few more weeks.

Wriggle over to read all about worms and worm farms (vermiculture).

Sniff out this interesting information on Liquid fertilisers

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